Miso Risotto with Shiitake Mushrooms

My secret to the perfect vegan mushroom risotto? Cooking the rice in miso broth instead of vegetable broth.

When I first removed dairy from my ingredient arsenal nearly a decade ago, I sadly figured I’d have to swear off risotto. The Italian porridge-y rice traditionally gets its signature savory personality from a generous heap of grated cheese and I didn’t know it was possible to make a good risotto without it.

As I experimented and got better acquainted with plant-based cooking, I learned that one of my go-to ingredient combos – miso + nutritional yeast – is the secret to the best dairy-free risotto. Coming up with the idea of using miso broth, in particular, is one of my proudest moments yet (something I originally shared on The Kitchn, btw).

This vegan miso risotto with shiitake mushrooms is my absolute favorite. Cooking the rice with mushrooms, plus topping the finished dish with shiitake “bacon”, creates the heartiest, savoriest, most satisfying risotto.

Key Ingredients + Substitutions

• Rice: Risotto is made with either white arborio or carnaroli rice. (Arborio is stocked in most American supermarkets.) These short-grain varieties are higher in starch than the common long-grain rice, thus producing a creamy final product.
• Onion: Sautéed onion/shallot is always the first step of risotto.
• White Wine: Also traditional for risotto, wine lends a funky, slightly acidic taste. Use a good-quality wine you’d enjoy drinking from a glass – never use “cooking wine”.
• Shiitake Mushrooms: The “meatiest” mushrooms, in my opinion.
• Miso: Risotto is usually cooked in beef/chicken broth. For a vegan version, the natural first choice would be vegetable broth. However, store-bought versions are often too salty, too saturated in color, or carrot-heavy, all of which can negatively impact your dish. Miso broth, on the other hand (miso dissolved in simmering water), has the ideal amount of salt, and is neutral-colored and super savory.
• Nutritional Yeast: These savory yellow flakes also add a “cheesy” flavor to vegan dishes. Look for Bob’s Red Mill or Bragg brands.

How to Make Miso Mushroom Risotto

Find complete instructions with ingredient amounts in the recipe card below.

Step 1: Make Shiitake “Bacon” (Optional)

This savory garnish makes mushroom risotto extra mushroom-y and breaks up the creamy texture of the rice, so I highly recommend it. Just slice up the shiitakes, toss with salt and oil, and bake until brown. (It may look like a lot of mushrooms at first, but they cook down considerably.)

Step 2: Make Miso Broth

Bring water to a boil in a pot, then add miso and salt, and whisk to dissolve. You’ll be gradually incorporating this liquid into the rice. Keep the broth warm on the back burner the whole time you’re cooking the risotto.

Step 3: Sweat the Veg

To start the risotto, cook the vegetables until the onions are translucent, and the mushrooms are soft and reduced in size. Do not let the vegetables brown.

Step 4: Add the Rice

Add the rice to the pot and stir to coat. Cook for a few minutes, until the exteriors of the rice grains are translucent. Then add the wine and cook for a few more minutes to evaporate the alcohol.

Step 4: Start Adding Broth

Incorporate the hot broth into the rice: add a ladle, give the rice a stir, and cook until the broth is absorbed. Then add another ladle and repeat, gradually incorporating the liquid until you’ve used it all up. Cook until the rice is thick, creamy, and cooked through, while still a bit al dente; this process takes about 30 minutes.

Step 5: Serve the Miso Risotto

Serve the risotto garnished with shiitake “bacon”.

My Tips for the Best Risotto

• Don’t let the onion brown. With so few ingredients, the subtle taste of sautéed onion is a key flavoring in risotto. The cooked onion should be soft and translucent, with no caramelization. If you notice it starting to brown, turn the heat down.
• Don’t walk away for more than a minute. Risotto gets its signature creamy texture from gradually absorbing broth and being stirred very often. As the rice is agitated, it releases starch, which coats the grains and creates that porridge-y texture. While you do not need to be stirring the entire time, you should give the rice a stir every 1 to 2 minutes.
• Keep the rice hydrated. Keep a close eye on the texture and don’t let the grains dry out. As soon as the last addition of broth is absorbed, add the next ladle.

Why I Don’t Use Vegan Parmesan

The cheese alternatives section of the supermarket is ever-expanding and many dairy-free risotto recipes do rely on vegan “parm”. While the flavor of the vegan cheese blocks I’ve tried is pretty good, I’ve not come across a parmesan sub that melts the way risotto requires. (Most vegan cheeses have starches that prevent them from doing so.)

Moreover, vegan cheeses are typically made with low-quality oils and other ingredients I try to avoid. Besides, miso and nutritional yeast (both minimally-processed ingredients) create perfectly savory risotto all on their own.

Serving Suggestions

Shiitake risotto is a restaurant-fancy, yet cozy, vegan main course – especially for holidays and other special occasions. (Add a salad, like this Tuscan kale one, or pan-fried asparagus, for a complete meal.) If you’d like to serve risotto as a side, it works well with Italian tomato tofu, mushroom “scallops”, and these mini eggplant lasagnas.